- 2.1
- In Eq. (10) of Tolman (1992a) the power of should be ; H. Tolman, personal
communication, 1995.
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- 2.2
- Collins (1972) contains
an error in the expression due to an erroneous Jacobian transformation. See page A-16 of Tolman (1990).
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- 2.3
- The time evolution of wave action of a wave packet is naturally described as evolving along a trajectory (or ray) through the phase space
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In this sense, the local wave number vector conjugates to the position owing to the linear dispersion relation of water waves, assuming
a slowly varying medium in physical space (McDonald, 1988). The variables and are called the canonical coordinates in phase space with the components of to be
the usual Cartesian coordinates and the components of to be the conjugate momenta and .
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- 2.4
- Unless otherwise stated, integrals are with infinite limits.
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- 2.5
- Likewise, the marginal
yields the distribution
described in spectral space.
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- 2.6
- Strictly speaking, in the presence of the ambient current, the so-called action variable
should be employed
instead of
. This variable is characterized by its surface elevation
and surface potential
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Without reproducing the rather involved definition of (see Akrish et al. (2020), their Eq. (2.2)),
we just keep the notion of here as it is helpful to comprehend the rest of this section without further consequences.
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- 2.7
- A pseudo-differential operator is the inverse Fourier transform of the multiplication of by a symbol (here ) in Fourier space
and can be considered as a generalized differential operator.
This is evidenced by the fact that the Fourier transform of a pseudo-differential operator acting on a function living in physical space can be expressed as the Fourier multiplier operator
in Fourier space, that is,
given the pseudo-differential operator
(or a special case, the derivative
) with symbol
(or in the special case)
we have
for any smooth compactly supported function and its Fourier transform
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The use of pseudo-differential operators is of great importance in describing the dynamics of water waves and wave functions in quantum mechanics.
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- 2.8
- We suppress the variable in the argument of and other functions for the convenience of presentation.
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- 2.9
- If operators and do not commute, that is,
, but they commute with their commutator,
, then the BCH formula is given by
. This is a commonly used formula in quantum mechanics.
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- 2.10
- As a matter of fact, the cross correlations are due to the interaction with a medium that varies slowly in space.
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- 2.11
- Wave refraction and Doppler shifting can be modelled explicitly through the term
added to the left hand side of Eq. (2.225), as proposed in Smit et al. (2015a) using the local plane approximation, see pg. 1142 of their paper.
However, for a number of reasons that will become clear in Section 3.9, we will not do so here.
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- 3.1
- In the present context, we consider the discretization of the divergence operator
applied to the energy flux. See Zijlema (2021) for details.
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- 3.2
- Waves can be blocked by the current at a relative high frequency.
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- 3.3
- Although in SWAN the number of sweeps
equals 4 and is hard-coded.
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- 3.4
- The equivalent situation for such an equation is to have eigenvalues
of very different magnitudes.
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- 3.5
- It is
noted here that the effective used in SWAN is not equivalent to that of
WAM: the former is a factor larger.
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- 3.6
- The Lipschitz criterion is well known in the field of semi-Lagrangian schemes and its
interpretation is that trajectories do not cross each other during one Lagrangian time step. See e.g. Smolarkiewicz and Pudykiewicz (1992) and Lin and Rood (1996).
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- 3.7
- The spatial turning rate is the change in wave direction per unit forward distance that is travelled by the wave energy in a
time interval , and thus represents the curvature of the wave ray. This is equivalent to , which is the turning rate of the wave direction per unit time.
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- 3.8
- According to the Snel's law a wave direction with respect to the normal of a coastline within a directional bin
can not turn more than .
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- 7.1
- Available from http://www-unix.mcs.anl.gov/mpi/mpich.
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